Tenganan Pegringsingan, an old town in the heart of Bali, comes alive with echoes of the past as the ground meets the sky in a ballet of colours. Time seems to stand still here, and echoes of tradition may be heard throughout the verdant environment. As dawn breaks over the village, preparations for the Usaba Sambah, a festival of heritage and spirituality, begin. Among these preparations, the role of women, known as the Daha, emerges as the ritual's heartbeat, weaving strength and grace into the community fabric.
The Usaba Sambah, a major celebration celebrated annually in Tenganan Pegringsingan, commemorates the famous Pandan War. However, behind this well-known event lies a quieter, but as important tradition lead by the village's women. Known as the Ngastiti Ritual, this sacred activity is a spiritual preparation in which the Daha invoke blessings and protection for the Teruna, the men who would fight in the Pandan War. This ceremony emphasises the deep regard and interconnectedness that constitute the village's cultural identity.
As the sun rises, Tenganan's ladies congregate in the village temple, clothed in vivid kebayas. Their hands move with practiced ease, making offerings from materials passed down through the years. The air is dense with the scent of incense and the quiet murmur of prayers. Each gesture, each murmured mantra, demonstrates their devotion. The Daha plays a critical part in the Ngastiti Ritual, serving as the spiritual foundation for the entire festival.
On the day of the Pandan War, the village transforms into a centre of activity. While the men prepare for symbolic combat, the ladies carry out their sacred responsibilities. They bring elaborately prepared offerings to the temple, making certain that every detail is correct. The temple, decked with aromatic flowers and shimmering geringsing cloths, transforms into a place of spiritual energy. The last blessings are granted here, imbuing the combatants with the strength and courage of Indra, the Hindu God of War.
As the combatants, known as "mekaré-kare," take up their places, the ladies of Tenganan remain silent yet powerful. Their prayers and donations have formed a protective shield around the warriors, ensuring that the Pandan War goes beyond mere physical combat. The air is alive with the sound of sacred Selonding music, the aroma of burning incense, and the palpable energy of unity and tradition.
The Pandan War itself is a display of courage and solidarity. Men armed with thorny pandan leaves engage in ritualistic combat, their moves combining agility and reverence. After each bout, they embrace, symbolising the absence of malice and the presence of mutual respect. The women are there, tending to the wounds with a combination of turmeric and herbs, their touch a balm for both body and spirit.
As the sun sets, the community explodes in joy. The elders organise feasts, conduct dances, and tell stories of past Pandan Wars. Laughter fills the air, and shared heritage and tradition deepen community relationships. The Daha, having completed their religious responsibilities, engage in the festivities, their participation in the Usaba Sambah demonstrating their power and dedication.
