Tenganan Pegringsingan, Bali, is home to the Pandan War, a one-of-a-kind and spectacular tradition. This dramatic event, which uses only the thorny leaves of pandan plants, is the highlight of the yearly Usaba Sambah celebration. Usaba Sambah, rich in history and ceremony, has been an important component of the local Hindu community's tradition since the 11th century. The blood drawn from the pandan thorn wounds represents the valour of the god Indra, the beloved deity of war.
Tenganan village is bustling with activity in the days leading up to Usaba Sambah celebrations. Every villager, young and old, male and female, has a responsibility to fulfil. Women are seen creating sweets and traditional meals, while others prepare the equipment needed for the approaching rites. They prepare for the religious ceremonies by dressing in the gorgeous woven fabrics that are unique to Pegringsingan.
The customary procession begins early in the morning, with groups of young men marching to the village's highest point. Meanwhile, ladies gather at the temple to pray, carrying offerings on their heads. This act of devotion establishes the spiritual tone for the day.
As the morning continues, the village performs other rites. The air is filled with enthusiasm as locals take turns on giant swings, symbolising life's cyclical rhythm. Traditional cockfighting and the trance-like practice of piercing the body with a kris blade add to the ceremonial ambiance. Each of these events acts as a lead-up to the highly anticipated Pandan War.
When the time comes, the Pandan War erupts with fervour. Participants brazenly battle, holding spiky pandan leaves. The resulting wounds, while painful, are a source of pride and represent a holy link to the god Indra. Following the violent battle, the villagers gather to recuperate and eat a communal supper. Healers move among the troops, applying traditional herbal medicines to their wounds, which are said to encourage faster healing.
The day concludes with a spectacular dance in the temple, capping off the Usaba Sambah celebration with joy. Tenganan's elaborate rituals not only honour their deities but also reinforce their cultural identity, passing along these treasured customs to future generations.
