Tenganan Pegringsingan is a village in the heart of Bali where the sacred and everyday coexist harmoniously. This community, situated between emerald rice terraces and ancient woodlands, is home to a festival that transcends time and space: the Usaba Sambah. The venerated Lord Indra, the God of War, is at the heart of this epic celebration, and his heavenly presence can be felt in every rite and fight of the Pandan War.
According to legend, Lord Indra descended on Tenganan and blessed the country and its people with power, fortitude, and an unwavering spirit. To commemorate these supernatural gifts, the locals established the Usaba Sambah, a celebration that exemplifies their intense devotion to Lord Indra. As the first light of June dawns on the town, preparations for this important event begin with fervour and devotion.
The Pandan War, a major highlight of the Usaba Sambah, is more than just a physical battle. It's a ceremonial tribute to Lord Indra's fighting spirit. On the day of the fight, the village is alive with activity. Men dressed in traditional costume ready for war, their hearts full of adoration for Lord Indra. Each warrior, known as a "mekaré-kare," holds the sharp-leaved pandanus, which represents Indra's might and wrath.
However, the route to combat is paved with spirituality. Before the Pandan War, the Ngastiti Ritual takes place in the early morning light. This rite, done by the ladies of the community, is a moving expression of devotion. The Daha (women), dressed in their finest kebayas, give prayers and blessings, requesting Indra's protection for the Teruna. The aroma of incense fills the air, as does the sound of sacred chants and His unmistakable presence.
As the fighters take their positions, the local temple serves as a shelter for divine energy. The final blessings are bestowed here, surrounded by aromatic banten and dazzling geringsing linens. The women, silent yet powerful, bring the essence of Lord Indra's blessings to the battlefield. Their prayers and contributions ensure that the spirit of the Pandan War rises above mere physicality, becoming a celestial dance of courage and solidarity.
When the battle starts, the atmosphere is electric. The competitors, eyes blazing with resolve, perform a ballet of strength and respect. The clash of pandanus leaves, the aroma of incense, and the sound of sacred Selonding music create an ethereal atmosphere. Each stroke, each motion is a tribute to Indra, demonstrating his ongoing presence in the villagers' hearts.
Following the conflicts, the wounded warriors are treated with a mixture of turmeric and herbs, a traditional cure that heals both the body and the soul. This act of care, based on ancient wisdom, is thought to be blessed by Indra himself, ensuring the soldiers' quick recovery and continued strength. The embrace between competitors after each round represents the absence of hostility and the strong sense of brotherhood developed by Indra's teachings.
As the sun sets, the village erupts in joy. The elders organise feasts, conduct dances, and tell stories of past Pandan Wars. The Mayunan Tradition, steeped in symbolism, takes the stage, connecting the physical and metaphysical worlds. This ritual, too, is steeped in Lord Indra's blessings, highlighting his vital role in the Usaba Sambah.
The Usaba Sambah is more than just a festival; it represents the village's enduring spirit and steadfast devotion to the sacred. Through ceremonies and the Pandan War, the residents of Tenganan Pegringsingan honour Lord Indra, receiving strength and inspiration from his presence. Year after year, the event remains a courage, faith, and community, woven with the divine threads of His blessings.
